specjalistyczna literatura medyczna i farmaceutyczna

Cosmetically Active Ingredients: Recent Advances is designed to be a practical handbook for formulators looking for the latest in active ingredients, covering everything you need to know in the following sections:

Barrier & Skin Moisturization progresses from a review of ceramides and other lipids of the cutaneous barrier to aquaporins and water-binding receptors in the deeper layers of the skin—while also investigating the process of exfoliation by which the skin‘s epidermal layer renews and rejuvenates itself.

Antiaging is divided into two subsections—Peptides and Other Concepts. The former covers how most peptides used at present are shown to have the capacity to stimulate skin repair, while further describing peptides bearing antioxidant, firming and neurocosmetic properties. The latter subsection contains many different approaches to help the skin look younger, from skin chromophore homogenization to sirtuin stimulation, from rose extracts with UV protection to stimulating metabolic processes in the cells.

Sensitive Skin & Irritation/Inflammation describes ingredients, often plant-derived, that help the skin defend itself against inflammation, irritation and other aggressors. Concepts are based on many different mechanisms, from inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis, to interesting antioxidant strategies, from DNA repair to reduction of histamine release and others.

Skin Toning contains chapters that describe skin whitening (i.e. brightening, lightening) activities to reduce melanin content in the skin, as well as discussions of what helps the skin obtain a better looking tan, either artificially, such as with DHA, or by accelerating the natural process.

Hair Care investigates innovative ingredients that improve the appearance and structure of hair. Discussions on antidandruff and on female baldness, along with a quite recent article on preventing hair loss, open up the field of biological activity.

The final section, Miscellaneous, contains papers that illustrate the fact that all kinds of ingredients in a formula may have cosmetic activity, even if they are not initially designed to be realized as actives, and offers a brief look at the importance and prevalence of ingredients for cellulite treatment—a major growth segment of the personal care industry.

"Reprinted from Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine over the past six or so years, 43 articles describe or review research concerning ingredients designed for cosmetic applications and their specific cosmetic activities. They are arranged in sections on barrier and skin moisturization, peptides and other concepts for anti-aging, sensitive skin and irritation/inflammation, skin toning, hair care, and miscellaneous. Among the topics are improving skin moisturization with polyglycerol-derived plant waxes, quantifying skin relaxation and well-being, strategies of anti-aging activities in sunscreen products, reducing skin stress response with salicin derived from willow bark, skin lightening challenges, the anti-dandruff efficacy of sodium shale oil sulfonate versus coal tar, and fragrance with anti-aging benefits."

— Eithne O Leyne

Annotation © Book News Inc., Portland, OR, www.booknews.com

"There are many books that describe cosmetic actives, but unfortunately most of them are as coherent as sand. This book, however, harvested from papers published recently in Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, is different. Karl Lintner, PhD, progenitor and champion of peptide use in cosmetics, has succeeded in bringing a coherent structure to a seemingly disparate collection of research studies. He has divided the actives into different claim areas that are grouped by the location of their action: from the outer stratum corneum to the inner viable layers. Extremely useful are the academic review chapters that provide coherency in the individual sections; in this way, one has a complete overview—from the medical background of the issue to be tackled to the chemical answer of how to address the issue. Focused on providing sound solutions to questions and issues of active ingredient use, Cosmetically Active Ingredients: Recent Advances is truly a book that you cannot afford to miss."

—Johann W. Wiechers, PhD

Independent Consultant for Cosmetic Science, JW Solutions

Technical Advisor, Allured Books

INTRODUCTION

Chapter 1: Stratum Corneum: The Role of Lipids and Ceramides []46 kb]

Chapter 2: Oral and Topical Echium Oil for Skin Benefits

Chapter 3: Examining an Exfoliation-promoting Enzyme for Cosmetic Applications

Chapter 4: An Aquaporin-inspired Lipid Concentrate for Mature Skin

Chapter 5: A New Sodium Hyaluronate for Skin Moisturization and Antiaging

Chapter 6: Improving Skin Moisturization with Polyglycerol-derived Plant Waxes

Chapter 7: Therapeutic Peptides in Aged Skin

Chapter 8: Peptides, Amino Acis and Proteins in Skin Care?

Chapter 9: Quantifying Skin Relaxation and Well-being

Chapter 10: Biomimetic Tripeptides for Improved Dermal Transport

Chapter 11: Tetrapeptide Targets Epidermal Cohesion

Chapter 12: New Laminin Peptide for Innovative Skin Care Cosmetics

Chapter 13: Searching for the Cosmeceutical Connection

Chapter 14: Antiaging in a Different Light: Assessing How Chromophores Color Perception

Chapter 15: Sirtuins: A Breakthrough in Antiaging Research [724 kb]

Chapter 16: Antiaging Benefits of French Rose Petal Extract

Chapter 17: Strategies of Antiaging Actives in Sunscreen Products

Chapter 18: Wrinkle Reduction by Stimulation of the Skin’s Mechanical Resistance

Chapter 19: Stimulating Epidermal Regeneration with Plant-derived Stem Cells

Chapter 20: New Directions for Sensitive Skin Research

Chapter 21: Reducing Skin Stress Response with Willow Bark-derived Salicin

Chapter 22: Raspberry Stem Cell Extract to Protect Skin from Inflammation and Oxidative Stress

Chapter 23: A DNA Repair Complex to Decrease Erythema and UV-induced CPD Formation

Chapter 24: Dihydroavenanthramide D for Anti-irritant and Anti-itch

Chapter 25: Mediating Shaving Irritation

Chapter 26: Antibacterial and Anti-inflammatory Effects of a Magnolia Extract

Chapter 27: A Medicinal Plant Blend for Soothing and Anti-inflammatory Effects

Chapter 28: Skin-lightening Challenges

Chapter 29: Skin Whitening via a Dual Biological Pathway

Chapter 30: Inhibitory Effects of Phyllanthus emblica Tannins on Melanin Synthesis

Chapter 31: Formulating Sunless Tanning Products with DHA: Current Challenges

Chapter 32: Pisum sativum Extract for Safe- and Self-tanning

Chapter 33: Self-tanning Based on Stimulation of Melanin Biosynthesis

Chapter 34: Certifying Hair Product Claims

Chapter 35: A Diester to Protect Hair from Color Fade and Sun Damage [2,5 MB]

Chapter 36: Hair and Amino Acids

Chapter 37: Targeting the Hair Follicle Basement Membrane to Improve Growth Conditions In vitro

Chapter 38: Applicability of t-Flavanone to Treat Female Pattern Baldness

Chapter 39: Protecting the Hair with Natural Keratin Bipolymers

Chapter 40: Antidandruff Efficacy of Sodium Shale Oil Sulfonate Versus Coal Tar

Chapter 41: Fragrance with Antiaging Benefits

Chapter 42: Stabilized Solutions of Zinc Coceth Sulfate for Skin Cleansing and Skin Care

Chapter 43: Cellulite: Evolving Technologies to Fight the ‘Orange Peel’ Battle

Index [440 kb]

Edited by Karl Lintner, PhD. Karl is an independent consultant to the cosmetics industry, whose previous positions within the industry include technical director and managing director at Sederma, and most recently as technical advisor to Enterprise Technology/CRODA. Lintner earned a degree in chemical engineering and a doctorate in biochemistry from Vienna University. Subsequently, he engaged in 10 years of research in biological peptides at the Nuclear Research Centre in Saclay, France, yielding more than 30 published studies in biochemistry and biophysics. Karl has filed several dozen patents, published numerous articles and book chapters on cosmetic ingredients, edited a book on regulatory issues, and presently sits on the boards of the Société Française de Cosmétologie (SFC), Cosmetic Valley and the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCL). Recipient of numerous awards during his tenure with Sederma, he was a finalist for the In-Cosmetics Lifetime Achievement Award in 2010.

Authors include:

Nava Dayan

Karl Lintner, PhD

Hugo Ziegler

Zoe Diana Draelos, MD

Daniel Schmid

Peter D. Kaplan, PhD

Timothy Gao, PhD

Luigi Rigano